Friday, November 7, 2014




 As I enter the last week in my 5-week trip to Paris, I am spending some time walking through neighborhoods I've enjoyed during my last few visits.  Most of the picture I post will reflect that.

Thursday, November 6th, I took the metro to the Pont Neuf--partly to look again at the metro station.  It has a couple of display cases with examples of French coins in them and the design (a renovation from 1970) also features coins.  The Paris Mint (or what used to be--and may still be) is located directly across the Seine.







When you come up from the metro you not only see the Pont Neuf and the Seine, but you come up beise La Samarataine, the famous department store.  The store was named for a water pump (La Samaratine--the woman Samaratain who gave Jesus a drink from the well? that once operated on the Pont Neuf.  The store has been undergoing a renovation since 2005 when it closed and is set to reopen as a "mixed-use" property in 2016.  The property is now owned by the luxury developers who own Bon Marché.
 The Pont Neuf was completedin 1607 and has some distinctive round semi-circular recesses set into the sides.



It was the first Paris bridge to be built without houses on it, and although the name means "new bridge," it is in fact the oldest bridge in Paris.  It allows beautiful and picturesque views of the river--that's the Pont des Arts, the pedestrian bridge, in the background.

Besides whatever administrative functions it has in regard to currencies, the Hôtel de la Monnaie, now houses a three star restaurant, a coin museum, and exhibit space (currently showing: Paul McCartney and his Chocolate Factory).  More retail and exhibition spaces will open over the next few years.

  I walked from that point to the Quai Voltaire and the lovely art store, Magasin Sennelier, where I promptly lost myself for an hour or so looking at the brushes, paints, paper and other supplies.
Then I walked back along the Seine, browsing the bouquinistes, and looking at the many galleries along these quais.



Passing the Pont des Arts, I saw the many "love locks," that "adorn"--or vandalize, depending on your opinion--the bridge.  I thought I had read that the Mayor of Paris was going to have them removed because of their damage to the bridges and the potential pollution of throwing the keys in the Seine.  But they look as widespread as ever. 

The locks began appearing on the bridge in 2008 after officials in Rome banned the locks from a bridge there--for the reasons stated above.  I think they are unattractive and demean the graceful lines of the bridge.
 Anyway, I walked back toward the Pont Neuf and the Square de Vert-Galant.  A small triangular shaped park at the base of the bridge.
 Vert-Galant refers to Henri IV, who was something of a ladies man during his reign.

One of his most famous mistresses (and whom he wished to marry), Gabrielle d'Estrées, who's picture has been in my blog before and which hangs in the Louvre.



He's the king who famously said, "Paris is worth a mass."  (He was a protestant who converted to consolidate support when he went from being King of Navarre to King of France.)  He's also credited with the saying (or a version of it) of "a chicken in every pot."

Appropriately, here he is on his horse as he is reputed to have said that he ruled with "weapon in hand and arse in the saddle" (on a le bras armé et le cul sur la selle).
The park is one of those special places that provide a sense of peace and serenity in the middle of a busy city.

The Pont Neuf from the park.
 The right bank of the Seine from the park.



From there I walked a few steps to Notre Dame and found the plaque in front on the Place du Parvis who is (perhaps not geographically, but in our hearts) the center of Paris and from which distances in the city are measured.


Then I crossed the bridge from Ile Saint Louis and walked to Sully-Morland and took the metro home.  Tomorrow . . . another part of the city I love.


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